Churches of Chiloé
UNESCO CALLS THE CLUSTER of wooden churches dotted around Chile’s Chiloé Archipelago, a “unique architectural phenomenon”. Made of native timber and wooden shingles, these edifices were built to withstand the archipelago’s humid and rainy climate.
A shining example of mestizo culture, the churches were built when the island chain was still under the rule of the Spanish Crown, in the 18th and 19th centuries.
—|||—
Our plan to check as many of these churches off our list began in the city of Castro with a rental car. Island hopping via ferries, road trip snacks, and one stop for the plumpest oysters I’ve ever had the pleasure of slurping punctuated our quest.
This trip is a breeze to do on your own. There is no need to hire a guide, or join a tour - just rent a car and bring your own provisions, as restaurants and convenience stores sporadic at best. Maps of the islands and churches are easy to find in Castro, which is the perfect jumping-off point for the journey.
—|||—
A slew of mythological creatures are revered in Chiloé, mainly outside the commercial centers. While driving around the islands, keep your eyes peeled for brujos (warlocks) and Fiura, a *short, forest-dwelling hag with a ravenous sexual appetite and breath that causes sciatica in humans and is enough to kill smaller animals.
Church of San Francisco in the town center of Castro on Isla Grande de Chiloe (big island). More boisterous than the other, notably humble wooden churches, but still a member of the UNESCO designation.
Interior of one church, looking down toward the altar.
Iglesia de Vilupulli. A Catholic church located in the commune of Chonchi.
Inside Vilupulli.
Low tide woes.
In a car, on a boat.
Iglesia de Ichuac. A Catholic church in the commune of Puqueldón, on Lemuy Island.
Inside Iglesia de Ichuac.
Inside Iglesia de Ichuac.
Iglesia Detif in the commune of Puqueldón, on Lemuy Island.
Front door detail of Iglesia Detif.
Iglesia de Aldachildo or Iglesia de Jesús Nazareno. A Catholic church located in the commune of Puqueldón, on Lemuy Island
Iglesia de Santa María de Loreto de Achao. A Roman Catholic church on Quinchao Island.
Last church of the day, as the sun dips into the Chacao Channel.
VERICT: Mostly Harmless - if the Fiura doesn’t find you.
—-
Chile’s Chiloé Archipelago: Thirty-plus islands across the Chacao Channel from southern Chile.
Mestizo: Term for any person of “mixed blood”. In Central and South America it means anyone with both Indian and European lineage.
Castro, Isla Grande de Chiloé: Capital of the Chiloé Archipelago.
* Fiura definition from Lonely Planet
