Formerly Faifoo

I CONSIDER MYSELF AN ADVENTUROUS EATER, and Fernando - I’ve seen that guy happily chow down on cow foot and intestines. The two of us could explode in a city as culinarily clever as Hoi An (formerly named Faifoo).

A popular tourist destination thanks to lazy beaches and fine tailors, Hoi An has a charming Old Quarter which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Ancient homes such as Phung Hung and Duc An, dating back to the 16th century, have housed the same families for more than eight generations. It’s like a living, open-air museum, and it has been beautifully preserved.

But even without all that, the food alone is reason enough to visit. 

Starting with Morning Glory, which specializes in high-end Vietnamese street food. Seats surrounding a centralized kitchen meant we could watch the chefs in action. Catching quick glimpses of fruits, vegetables, and proteins we’ve never before laid eyes on kept our tastebuds at attention.

Hoi An specialties, like: Cao Lau (noodles and pork), White Rose (steamed shrimp dumplings) and Com Ga (chicken rice), were all handmade in front of us, and unexpectedly cheap. Our dinner for two, plus drinks, was about $25 USD, and this was no ordinary dinner - it was exceptional.

The scents, the heat, the breeze, the sounds…a perfect night at Morning Glory Restaurant.

At night the Old Quarter transforms. Busy streets are calm and filled with the warm glow of thousands of colorful, paper lanterns. Street hawkers shove sweet-smelling carts stuffed with fried bread. Kids slingshot flashing toys high into the air and catch them when they twirl back toward the Earth. Pleasant-faced hosts of open-fronted restaurants smile and invite you in for dinner, and their spices season the night.

Cities in Vietnam are loud and fast, constantly moving, buzzing, shouting with excitement. Nights in Hoi An’s Old Quarter are breezy, and dim, the air is sweet, and time moves slowly, giving you more moments to savor and more beauty to appreciate.

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VERDICT: Mostly Harmless - and totally tasty.

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LINKS:

Old Quarter - The heart of Hoi An, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.

Phung Hung - Built in 1780, a typical commercial house representative of Vietnam’s urban areas in the 19th century. Now a popular tourist site in Hoi An.

Morning Glory - Authentic Vietnamese street food in Hoi An, Vietnam.

Cao Lau - A dish of noodles and pork. One of Vietnam’s most iconic.

Com Ga - A dish of chicken rice.