Africa's Windy City

Fishy breezes. Fishermen displaying the efforts of their hard work. Gulls swarming gut piles. Fresh catches of eel, urchin and everything else lining the port.

We were walking the skala de la kasbah, the picturesque ramparts, in Essaouira, Morocco. Off the Atlantic coast in northern Africa, Essaouira’s Medina meets the ocean here at a bay partially protected by the island of Mogador. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Medina is a shining example of an 18th-century fortified town.

Most visitors take advantage of the narrow alleys, creative boutiques, art galleries, cozy riads, and colorful dishes found at every turn in the Medina, but you won’t find much beach tourism. Thanks to a coastal wind named alizee, lying on a towel on the beach can be troublesome. This natural tourist filter helps Essaouira retain its charm and history.

Occupied since prehistoric times, and overrun by hippies in the 60s and 70s, Essaouira was also the setting for the fictional city of Astapor in Game of Thrones. This is where Khaleesi purchased her army of unsullied soldiers.

Our last evening was spent at one of the ubiquitous fish stalls (we chose our spot based on lighting since most of the stalls serve the same catch), devouring fish after fish after shrimp after crab. Lit by a gas tank centerpiece, our wooden picnic table in the middle of a fishing port was transformed into a semi-romantic seaside dinner.

VERDICT: Mostly Harmless - but the waves do get mighty high at the ramparts.